Ryu2.mind

Backfrom Beijing... some things to process and share about in due time, butfor now, here's an account of a rather interesting dinner experience definitely off the beaten track.

Basically, I went with Will, Davids Kim and Ro, uspolymer, and eliao on Sunday for some Korean food in Beijing.

Some North Korean food, that is.

At a restaurant run by the NK government.

Apparently,they have several restaurants around the world -- serving as much of atourist attraction as anything else, not to mention being a source offoreign currency for Pyongyang. Supposedly, there's one in Austria, anda few other countries, but the majority of them are in China. Nearlyall the staff: chefs, waitresses, and the like come from North Korea,essentially representing the country in this capacity.

For me Ihad a personal interest, for besides my long-present interest in Chinaand Japan, I've been harboring a fascination with North Korea for thelast year or so... see this entry for more reflections on this topic.

Twoyears ago when some of us went to Beijing, we embarked on a wild huntacross Beijing for the elusive restaurant run by the NK government.Like Bigfoot or the Loch Ness monster, some people reported sightings,but when we went there, it was nowhere to be found, and I ultimately left Beijingdisappointed. Fortunately, this time, our Beijing host DRo wasprepared, and with my avid encouragement, off we went.

It was myfirst time eating NK food (distinct from SK food in several ways) andinteracting with North Koreans up close and personal. Yes, I'm stillhoping and Thinking for a chance to somehow enter the country in thenot-too-distant future, but until then, having dinner at this uniqueplace was fascinating enough on its own.

TheChinese name of the place is Yu Liu Guan... Pyongyang cuisine at itsfinest. =)  According to my Korean friend samjang, the hangul letters say Pyoung Yang's Oak Ryu Guan #1restaurant (place).

Theydo a brisk business here. The venue was two stories and probably had aseating capacity of 200-300. Most (90%) of the clientele are actuallySouth Koreans, for whom eating here is the closest they'll ever get toexperiencing North Korea. A good portion of the rest are Chinese orKorean-Chinese. Apparently, only a small handful of customers are bona fide North Koreans.

Liveentertainment was provided by the motherland's finest. According touspolymer, they sang Korean folk songs (loved by both the North and theSouth) rather than anything political or propaganda in nature.

EveryNorth Korean citizen is supposed to wear a pin with the image of Great LeaderKim Il Sung, and our waitress was no exception. DKim was a bitdisappointed that he couldn't get one for himself.

Takingour order. DKim is wanting to get a picture with the NK girl whileuspolymer was our lifesaver by being our Korean translator, as shespoke no English and only minimal Chinese.

Incidentally, thewaitress majorly chewed out DKim for being Korean and not being able tospeak the language (referring to it as chosunmal, not hangukmal).

Ourlovely NK waitress is pouring some Sprite, which surprised me a bit,being a product of the evil capitalist Coca Cola company fromimperialist America.

As you can tell, she wasn't too happy to have her picturetaken. Apparently, it's because the girls are sent from NK as culturalperformers and not waitresses, and to have them pictured in the lattercapacity would be a embarassment for their homeland. I'd say Pyongyanghas bigger problems to worry about at the moment, but to each their own...

Snip, snip, while DRo and DKim await the bulgogi/kalbi.

Service with a smile... or a very good imitation thereof on the outside -- sort of like the home country itself, I wonder?

Seafood in a shell.

Some seafood-type "salad".

Bulgogi...similiar but definitely distinct from the South Korean version. Lesssweet, spicier, and meatier are things that come immediately to mind.This was definitely the best part of the meal.

A very fulfilling meal.

Agroup shot with one of North Korea's finest. uspolymer was interestedin asking about her age (24), how long she had been in China (1 year),where she was from (Pyongyang), and whether she volunteered for thisposition (she applied, and it was a great honor to be chosen). Most ofthe answers seemed memorized and scripted, as we asked another girl,and got similar responses.

Unfortunately, uspolymer never got achance to ask her for her phone number. =) But he was not alone, asapparently, the girls do get hit on by South Koreans frequently... =P

The damage: 750 yuan for the six of us. Most, if not all of it, will go directly to Pyongyang and the government there.

Some closing food for thought:Were we right to give them our patronage and in the process, support aregime that makes China at its worst look positively angelic incomparison?

In a world driven by law and idealism alone, theanswer would be clear. And yet, as I reflect on this back home in SH,I'm reminded that legalism and idealism for legalism and idealism'ssake are all the more undesirable...  For He after all did notavoid or shun the most lost amongst the lost, and the poorest amongstthe poor, but ate and dined in their midst.

On Sunday inBeijing, in a way we did a bit of that, and while we came in with nopurpose other than to fill our stomachs, I left nonetheless feeling abit better off because of the experience.

Update: For Beijing visitors and residents wanting to sample it for yourself:

http://www.yazuo.com/restaurant/3051/content.htm
北京玉流宫餐饮 (Beijing Yuliu Palace Food and Drinks)
地址： 朝阳区湖光中街8号 (8 Middle Huguang Street, Chaoyang District)

Thanks to Micah for unearthing the webpage with the info.